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Thursday, November 1, 2007

What causes waves?

Creation of waves depends on the wind's speed, duration, and the size of the area over which the wind blows. Ocean wave range in height from fractions of an inch to almost 100 feet (30 meters) high.

Wind blows the surface layers of the sea, gradually forming a rolling movement of waves. As these waves near the coast, the sea-bed interrupst their rolling movement, and tehy mount up and break onto the beach. On beaches with a shallow slope, the waves pile up to a great height before breaking causing surf. Out in the open sea, the waves may be very far apart, but they are closer together as they reach the shore.

Other events that cause waves include earthquakes, volcanic explosions, and underwater landslides. Such waves are very large and are called tidal waves, or tsunamis. Though rare, they occur most commonly in the Pacific Ocean.The huge waves of tsunamis move across the ocean very rapidly and are capable of destroying coastal communities.

The highest wave ever recorded was 34 m high during a hurricane in 1933.

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